Backpacking Nā Pali Coast - the Kalalau Trail

Looking to backpack the Nā Pali Coast? In this post, we share our personal journey along the Kalalau Trail—one of the most beautiful and challenging hikes we’ve ever done. From the hard-earned lessons of hiking right after a wedding (never again!) to the unforgettable views that kept us going, we’ll walk you through what to expect, what we’d do differently, and how to make the most of your trip. For a more detailed guide and essential tips, check out our “Guide to Backpacking the Nā Pali Coast - Kalalau Trail” blog where we’ve laid everything out.

If there is one piece of advice I can give you about this hike it would be to NOT hike it a day after a wedding… that was a BIG mistake on our part. However, if it wasn’t for the breakfast burritos we picked up at Wake Up Coffee Bar I don ‘t think we would have made it. Hungover or not I definitely recommend ordering one before the hike if you are staying in Hanalei. The burritos are so good and I was able to save the other half for lunch.

With that lesson learned, let’s start from the beginning…

Getting Started

After taking a few days to adjust to the time change, we scheduled a driver to pick us up at 9am in Hanalei to take us to the Kalalau trailhead at Ke’e beach. The hike is 11 miles to the Kalalau beach campsite and unfortunately we began the hike around 10am. I obviously recommend leaving earlier so that you miss most of the afternoon heat and are able to do the side attractions along the trail but considering our circumstances, that wasn’t in the cards for us.

Once we got dropped off we set up a pick-up time with our driver. This is crucial because you will not have service at the beginning of the trail or throughout the hike. So unless you are taking the shuttle, I highly recommend you schedule your pick-up ahead of time. When we got that sorted out we were finally able to begin the hike.

First Leg of the Hike

In my opinion, the initial stretch of the hike is a perfect introduction to what lies ahead. There is some vertical incline and decline, with a zigzagging path that mirrors the rest of the hike. Honestly, the zigzags were actually one of my favorite parts about the hike, they kept me motivated throughout. One moment, you're greeted with breathtaking views of the turquoise coastline; the next, you're seeing jagged cliffs stretching along the mountainside. But with the intense heat of the sun, I found myself eager to get back into the cool shade of the rainforest, which felt like a jungle.

After the first 2 miles of the hike, you run into your first attraction which is Hanakāpī ’Ai Beach. This is a beautiful beach that a lot of people hike to for the day. We did not stop here on the way in but we did stop here on our way out. This is also where the trailhead to Hanakapi’ai Falls, the second attraction, starts. The hike to the falls is 4 miles there and back.

When you continue the hike from Hanakāpī ’Ai Beach, after about 4 more miles you will run into the last attraction, Hanakoa Falls, which is a 1 mile round trip detour. Hanakoa, is also where the first campsite option is for this hike. If you are tired and/or are a slower hiker this is the place for you to set up camp for the first night, however, if you are able to push through I would highly recommend it. I personally don’t think you are missing much if you don’t camp here and Kalalau Beach is worth the extra push. Although, I don’t recommend setting up camp here for the night, it is a great place to stop for lunch. It is about at the half way mark, it has coverage from the sun, an outhouse, and a stream where you can refill on water.

Crawlers Ledge

Once we were rested and refilled up on water, we continued onward to the second half of the hike. That’s when around mile 7 we reached the iconic part of the hike called the “crawlers ledge” which you can probably guess what that part of the hike entails. Yep, a narrow path that is on the ledge of the mountain. On one side you have the rocky wall and on the other side a steep drop down a rocky ledge to the ocean. Even though this is considered the most dangerous part of the hike, I personally think the section leading up to the crawlers edge was scarier. The path was pretty washed out that when ever you took a step you would slide.

The Final Stretch

Once you have completed crawlers ledge you’re on your final stretch to the campsite. The last leg of the hike offers little shade, so brace yourself for the heat. By the time we could finally see Kalalau beach, I practically ran the rest of the way even though I was utterly exhausted. I couldn’t wait to drop the weight and to take a dip in the water. But before we reached the campsite we came upon the last river and needed to fill up on water so we had enough for the rest of the night. Once we filtered our water we made the last trek to the campground.

Camping at Kalalau Beach

Upon arriving at the campground, we had to search for available spots, as it operates on a first-come, first-served basis. We got lucky and found a campsite near the beach. Although we wanted to change into our swimsuits and run straight into the ocean, we only had a few hours of daylight left and decided to be responsible and set up camp first. However, our excitement to swim was shortened when we realized the ocean’s current was too strong and unsafe for swimming. Fortunately, we found a small waterfall at the other side of the campsite where we washed ourselves off from the dirt, sweat, and sand, feeling completely refreshed after the long hike.

After we got cleaned we found a spot on the beach to lay our towels down to watch the sunset. What surprised us was there were only 2 other couples that were on the beach with us despite the nearly full campground. We were not mad about it though, it made us feel like we were alone. After the sun set, we went back to camp to change into warmer clothes and cooked dinner before settling in for the night.

Unfortunately, we only got permits for one night so we had to get an early start the next day to make sure we got back in time for our driver. We got up at 6am, had breakfast on the beach, packed up our stuff, and started our long journey back. If there was one thing we could do differently it would be to stay another night and have a day to rest because our body was still exhausted and sore from the day before.

Final Thoughts

In the end, the Nā Pali Coast Trail was one of the most beautiful hikes we have ever done but also one of the most challenging. The heat, humidity, and constant vertical incline or decline definitely hits you hard but the views and experience all make it worth it.

We hope you get the chance to experience this incredible trail and enjoy the scenery as much as we did! Don’t forget to check out our “Guide to Backpacking the Nā Pali Coast - Kalalau Trail” for a detailed guide to planning your own adventure.